Desolation Sound Sailing Trip – Log 9
22 June 2013
After breakfast Wolf changes the fuel filters on the starboard engine. We have decided to wait a few hours so that we can take advantage of the tide. Grace Harbour has been a wonderful retreat, far from anyone in the most beautiful protected and secure setting. I decide that I should try to bake my first loaf of sour-dough bread from the culture that Janette gave me at Comox. She said that it was very different from baking with conventional yeast and the dough takes at least 12-24 hours to rise. I mixed the dough yesterday and the loaf has rising slightly so I bake it.
The smell of baking bread wafts through the entire boat and smells heavenly, as only homemade baked bread can smell. I cook breakfast and serve the bread… uhmm – not the best bread I have tasted and certainly the worst I have baked, but Wolf says it’s ok and manages to devour 2 slices.
10:00am we leave grace harbour heading down the Malispina and Okeover Inlets. 10:05am the starboard engines cuts out. Wolf is scurrying to bleed the fuel system, a process he is very familiar with. ”Probably got an air-lock when I changed the filter!” he says casually as he vanishes below deck. Soon she is purring like a kitten and we motor towards Okeover Landing arriving at 11:30am. We tie up to the public jetty and walk up the steep road to the Laughing Oyster, a pub and grill situated on the slopes of a hill with magnificent views of the inlet. In my backpack I am carrying 2 laptops, and a cruising guide as well as my journal. We hope to get internet connection and post yesterday’s blog. I am behind as time rushes by so filled with activity that I don’t have a chance to type. I scribble noted into my journal and catch-up whenever I can.
The restaurant owners Dave and Patty are there but explain that the place officially opens at noon. He nevertheless ushers us to the verandah and Wolf orders tea. We immediately connect to their internet like two crazed techno—geeks reading emails, checking our Facebook timelines and I begin to type my blog.
Wolf eventually orders Atlantic Cod and fries and I ask for a dessert menu – my craving for chocolate finally getting the better of me. I order some amazing triple chocolate yummy sticky dark delicious gooey melt-in-my-mouth goodie covered in even more sticky caramel sauce. I know, I know… but I figure I have been deprived for too long.
On the jetty enroute to Karibu we meet and speak to 2 German guys who live aboard a little 28’ yacht and have been sailing for many years. The one chap says he left Germany at the age of 16 years. We do not stop and chat too long but they look like an interesting pair with lots of amazing stories of Central America and other places they have visited. They have made Okeover Landing their home-base and say they are living off the grid.
1:35pm We turn into the inlet, and explore a few more miles before heading back to Lancelot Inlet, which we enter heading right into Theodasia Inlet where we plan to anchor at the northern end, for the night.
We pass many oyster incubators/hatcheries along the shore. We circle Polly Island and Madge Island into Isobel Bay. This little bay is one I believe is the most beautiful we have seen along the way. There is only space for 1 boat in a bay surrounded by high rocky cliffs and huge boulders.
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The heads leading into Theodosia are named Grail and Galahad continuing the Camelot theme.
The current screams through the narrows but Wolf has timed it to give us an extra push.
Shortly after arriving at 3:35pm another boat joins us in the isolated mooring. Strangely it is named Pendragon and when we speak to her owner Gene he says his middle name is Arthur – bizarre!
We lower the dingy and chug to the shore where we have noticed signs of logging activities. Apparently this bay is the last active operation where the sheltered bay, providing ideal conditions for storing and booming of logs, is still allowed. Estuaries such as these are critically vital for the rearing and life of many birds, marine organisms, fish and shellfish and I can’t help wondering how the logging affects them. Walking along the logging road we are disappointed to see old derelict discarded equipment defacing this naturally beautiful site.
Back on Karibu Wolf grills meat on the BBQ and we eat in silence listening to the sounds of the rippling stream we spotted on our walk and the cries of the bald eagles in the massive trees. Suddenly Wolf jumps up and grabs the binoculars and then shows me what has drawn his attention. Slowly drifting towards us on the incoming tide is a log boom which has broken loose. Instead of moving in a group the logs have separated but are still joined at their ends and have now become a long log-snake floating dangerously close to our boats. When they turn, at the change in tide, they spread out, creating a line behind us, forming a distinct net.
Wolf starts the motors and moves towards the western shores of the estuary and we watch as the logs float closer to Pendragon, who also weighs anchor and moves behind the log-boom. It is scary not knowing where they will float when the tide comes back in, so we sleep fitfully taking turns to come out several times to check; although, this was unnecessary as they had been swept to the shoreline close to the narrows which leads into Lancelot Inlet.