East African sailing trip – Log 13
SAILING LOG13
August 4, 2004
Reluctantly we decide it is time to leave the peaceful shelter of our beautiful “Feather-BedBay” and sail southwards to the BD Point where the mainland juts out into the ocean and forms a large lagoon.
A muddy river flows into the lagoon turning the sea into a strong-tea colour at low-tide. The lagoon is just like most others inMozambique: spattered with sand-bars and a few deep channels that twist and turn in serpentine fashion through them.
We anchor off the point in front of a few privately owned lodges and go ashore to meet the owners. The first visit takes us to Lula’sParadise.belonging to a Zimbabwean couple, Jakkie and Boet Boshoff, who started building 1½ years ago. They are extremely friendly and very hospitable. They offer us fresh water from their well as well as free fresh showers.
I help Jakkie with her photo program and a few other computer problems and she responds by offering 1½ eggs and some very welcome Barracuda fillets. She shows me how to thread shells. She has made some lovely shell mobiles, garlands and hanging baskets.
August 5, 2004
We visit the next lodge belonging to “Club 15” – A group of 15 friends who build lodges in various places. They give us another fish and Wolf & I spend several hours frying & pickling them so they will keep longer. We bought 2 crawfish from a local and enjoy a yummy BBQ with some home-made Canadian wine. We climb the highest sand-dune on the seaward side to phone Jo and Mom. It is wonderful speaking to them again.
August 6, 2004
One of the guests staying at Lula’sParadiseis going to Vilancolos, to take their daughter to the airport, and has offered to get us some supplies as well as more petrol for the dingy.
The anchorage in the channel is so bumpy after the sheltered one at BD Island,, we are not able to sleep as well and the noise of the water slapping the sides of the boat can become awfully irritating. I finish baking a loaf of bread and we hurry to get ashore and away from the yacht.
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We walk to a local “shop” which consists of a palm-fronds hut, we buy coca cola and fanta and the owner, a prety black lady, and her friends offer us a concoction called “weepa” a potent home-brew. Not wanting to appear rude we accept the drink which has us staggering back to the lodge. We are the laughing stock of the occupants who obviously know all about this notorious drink.
August 7, 2004
We chat to Jen & Bill and make up our minds to leave forIndigoBaytomorrow. The NE is blowing 10-15kn and predicted to do the same for the next 2 days. Wolf wants to try some spear-fishing off shore but as we round the point the swells and wind are too bad. Instead we choose to explore the bay motoring deep into the mangroves.
The ride back is bumpy as the swell has picked up. It is horrible onboard and we go to Lula’s to enjoy some company. Jakkie invites us to join everyone at the lodge for a crab curry. I bake a peach pudding and donate the custard. Jakkie and Boet are precious and we are enriched by the super experiences we shared with them.
August 8, 2004
We leave the point at 8:05am and get through the mouth without any problems; The Sea is choppy with 2mt swells. Fortunately we are running with them and it is not too unpleasant. We make good time and arrive back at the anchorage in front of Indigo bay hotel at 2:30pm a little too early to cross the shallow sand bar but by 3:15pm we are back at the anchorage.
I have the strangest feeling about this place almost as if I am at home; like I belong here… its weird. We go ashore and look for the pilot who flies the guests back and forth from the Hotel to Vilanculos. We need to check with Swazi Air whether the impellors which Jurgen sent have arrived.
After all this time in the Bazaruto Archipelago we finally buy a new starter kit and switch to another service provide… yeah, have cell phone reception at last. As I write this entry Wolf is snoring so I hurry to join him. We sleep so well here.
August 9, 2004
Still no success in contacting Swazi Air or Jurgen; Moonshadow moves to Pansy Island to link up with Ocean Explorer. Yacht Ballyhoo, a 42’ catamaran from Port Elizabeth, arrives in the bay and we meet the crew – Paul & Sue. The will spend a few days at Indigo Bay before heading up toKenya. I hoped to get to know them and possibly continue on up the coast with them as they seem to know the area North of Bazaruto very well however they seem to be solitary sailors enjoying being alone and doing their own thing.