East African sailing trip – log 18

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August 24, 2004

computer lesson
Wolf helps load software
Yummy home-made hot bread
There is little to compare with the aroma of bread baking

At 8:00am we dingy over to yacht Manatee. I have agreed to show Denise how I bake bread using yeast and Wolf has arranged to load Rhetts CMAP program onto his PC. The morning is spent laughing and joking and we almost forgot to add the yeast to the bread because we are joking around so much.

The bread comes out of the oven golden brown, crisp crust and smelling wonderful.

We celebrate Denise’s first loaf by cutting thick hot slices and spreading them with butter, cheese and home-made jam. Washing down each scrumptious mouthful with hot tea.

The day is perfect, a pleasant temperature, warm enough to expose our shoulders and cool enough not to have to worry about sunburn.

We go ashore and find the entire island uninhabited.

There is evidence of make-shift huts and frames for drying fish and turtle meat but no sign of any people.


Temporary Huts used by fishermen
Temporary Huts used by fishermen

We walk around the island in about an hour and a half and go back to our yachts to don our snorkelling gear.

After an hour exploring the fascinating coral reefs we are back on our yachts and ready to move to the next destination. The little island called Njovo which is about an hour’s sailing from Caldeira. The time is 2:00pm and the trades are behaving true to form affording us a wonderful spinnaker run. By 3:30pm we have found a good anchorage at South 16 degrees,33, 26minutes  & East 39 degrees,48 ,27 minutes.
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August 25, 2004

fishermen are given these seine-nets which catch every living species indiscriminately
The people are friendly and happy

As usual we are awake and up early, breakfast is our usual muesli, fruit-salad and yoghurt.

We tune into the SSB radio sked at 7:00am. The Peri-Peri network (now run by Roy; but at the time of journaling this was performed by Fred for many years – you are missed Fred- thank  you )

East Africa Indian Ocean & South  Atlantic 8.101Mhz @ 0500hrs (Wx) & then 12.353hz after Wx 1500hrs (both frequencies) provides weather updates and forecasts as well as tracks the progress and status of each yacht. Sailors rely heavily on these dedicated individuals who generously offer these services. The forecast is good for the next few days.

Constant fuel starvation
Wolf is baffled - what is causing this problem?

Shortly after our radio sked we are visited by locals in their dugout canoes, I give them each a sun-visor and a few Auto-magazines which seems to make them very happy.

It’s time to leave this lovely calm anchorage and we move on to Ile de Mafemeda. The motors have been fine for some time now but once again we lose the engines due to fuel starvation and a blockage in the lines. Wolf bleeds the system and a gentle breeze assists us by filling all 3 sails and moves us speedily towards Mafemeda; under a clear blue sky in warm sunshine.

2 very large crayfish
The largest crayfish I have ever seem

Rhett bought 2 huge crayfish one weighing 5kgs and the other 6kgs – I have never seen such big crayfish in my life, they radio us and proudly display them. Denise struggles to hold them up while Rhett photographs them. They invite us to join them for the feast later tonight.

At sundown we dingy ashore, we chat to a group of fishermen salting and drying fish on the beach in the long shadow of the old lighthouse, the only building on the island. Fortunately Rhett speaks Portuguese which is spoken all over Mozambique and has proved invaluable on this trip. We see their colourful dhows and I ask if I may take their photograph. They proudly pose for me and I show them their images on the playback viewer.

The NE blows strongly but we are looking forward to our crayfish dinner, my contribution is savoury rice. Denise has email facility onboard and so I quickly write a newsletter to send to my daughter Jo, who will distribute it to family and friends.The feast is not disappointing. Crayfish is very rich meat, and we can’t eat too much, so Denise has frozen the bulk of it. After dinner we are all exhausted and decide to retire promptly and ready ourselves for an early start in the morning.

Ile de Mafemeda
Such a wonderful place and such great memories

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