East African sailing trip – log 25

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September 8, 2004

Unbelievable beauty
Unbelievable beauty

Dawn is breaking as we exit the mouth of Rio Tara heading for Quisiva Island 15 nm North.

The NE wind persists and we slam into the choppy swells until we are passing Ilha das Camelos (Island of the Camel) We reach our anchorage at Quisiva quite early and we are excited to explore

Wolf and I had noticed a reef as we passed the point so we don our snorkel gear and swim out over a few coral bombies (coral-heads).

 The water is shallow and we spend some time swimming with these unperturbed fish.

We see some interesting tropical fish including pipe-fish, imperators, anemone clowns and many other familiar species.

Chromis Fish have gorgeous colours
Chromis Fish have gorgeous colours

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We even see schools of iridescent chromis and noticed that many of them were infested with parasites.

After our swim we decide to take a cold shower on the deck – our shower is fresh water straight from our water tanks and we use this sparingly… the normal process is to jump into the ocean then climb up the dive ladder soap-up and shampoo our hair, then we jump back into the sea and rinse all the soap off. Once back on the dive platform we take a final rinse with fresh water.

dugout and fisherman
dugout and fisherman

Wolf manages to complete his shower when a local fisherman paddles up to us in his dugout-canoe… I am still in the water and unable to come out as I am only dressed in my swimsuit and he is blocking the ladder.

I stay put respecting the embarrassment of the fisherman. He strikes up a lengthy conversation with Wolf and I am getting colder by the minute. They chat and my teeth begin chattering… they chat longer and I begin shaking– Karibu has swung around and the nose points towards the sun, leaving the back dive-platform in the shade, which isn’t very comfortable for me.

The fisherman finally makes his pitch … he has 2 crayfish which he sells to us. Content with his business deal he moves off and I scramble up the ladder shivering as I rinse off the salt water in cold fresh water and Wolf  stands by with a dry towel and a silly grin on his face.

We clean out our freezer and choose the meat for our BBQ on Manatee. Wolf and Rhett have gone out in the dingy and return with 3 “lulas” – delicious calamari which we enjoy as a starter to our scrumpious meal.


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