East African sailing trip – log 27


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SAILING LOG28

September 10, 2004

Ilha Das Rolas - island of doves
Ilha Das Rolas - island of doves

Rhett and Wolf chat on the radios and we decide to push on the Ilha das Rôlas (Island of the doves) In hind sight this is not a good decision as the anchorage is exposed and due to the tide-over-current and strong winds.

Despite the bouncy night we sleep soundly, and set off excited and looking forward to our snorkel over the Zala banks 3nm north.

The Zala banks reputably a spectacular coral reef known for the variety of corals and reef fish is a disappointment to us.

Nudibranch - sea slug
Nudibranch - sea slug

Either we are in the wrong spot or the reef has been devastated by the numerous cyclones that pass through these islands. We find this reef rather barren compared with others we have dived. 

We enjoy the snorkeling though, spotting numerous lettuce leaf, plate and other corals, small marine animals such as colourful nudibranches (sea-slugs) and live shells, golden-headed jawfish, clown-fish and an assortment of blennies.  

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Dhow ferry
Dhow ferry

Far too soon we are sailing past Ilha Macaloė – close enough to see the ruins of the old fort. It amazes me to see all these tiny islands with ruins of huge forts, evidence of power and struggle to maintain power, on each little island dotted along this coast. 

I am saddened when I see the development, no matter how supposedly controlled and environmentally sensitive the developers claim they are. It heralds a change from the hands of the island’s original inhabitants to the lodge and hotel owners, same as everywhere else … to the ones holding the purse-strings.  

happy and content - for now...
happy and content - for now...

I fear that apart from the jobs created by the lodges, very little wealth reaches these once happy islanders, and I wonder about the long-term effects on their existence and way of life.

Where ever we sail we are greeting by smiling children, women singing while they do their chores, and men happily fishing from their dugouts as they have done for decades. Now I wonder just how long it will take for the realization of inequality and dissatisfaction to make its appearance.  

I thank the Lord for the opportunity to see these islands as they are – sparsely populated, abundantly rich in tropical fruit and vegetation, unpolluted and pristinely natural and I ask for forgiveness on behalf of mankind for the greed and constant desire to exploit any environment not already ravaged by commercialism. Oh God, forgive us… for we know not what we do.

 

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