East African sailing trip – log 34
SAILING LOG34
September 18, 2004
Up again at the crack of dawn and ready for some serious exploring, we elect to stay within the Makindani Bay.
Mikindani is an old Swahili port that was once the center of trade in southern Tanzania.
The original inhabitants (the Makondo people) were joined around the 9th Century AD by Arab traders.
A further influx of Arabs occurred in the 17th century under the reign of Seyid Said the graves and mosques from this period can be still be seen here.
Mikindani town is located on the gently sloping hills of the southern coast of Mikindani Harbour, a small roughly heart shaped natural harbour off Mikindani Bay.
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With a narrow entrance to the harbour, it was a welcome respite from the perils of the unpredictable Indian Ocean for explorers in the 18th and 19th centuries and even for sailors and cruising yachts today.
After exploring the bay we anchor off the old town and Wolf gives Rhett and Denise a lift to shore so that they can see the ruins of the Arab fort, built by the Germans in the eighteen hundreds.
This one has been restored and now a boutique hotel where Rhett makes a booking for lunch tomorrow.
They also discovered a little pub called 10degrees South and we go there for a few drinks and an evening meal.
Our meal consisted of Crispy fried calamari and hot french-fries served with a side of fresh salad, oh how delicious.
It is enjoyable sitting here overlooking the swaying palm fronses contrasting against the azure waters of the bay.
The place is like a back-packers lodge, rustic, minimalistic and attractive.
The service is excellent and the atmosphere totally in keeping with this laid-back environment.
Back onboard we move across to the other side of the bay and anchor close to the mangroves and lush green vegetation falling asleep to the night sounds of bush babies or “nagapies” (meaning “little night monkeys” in Afrikaans) chattering in the baobabs – Bush Babies are small, nocturnal primates native to continental Africa.