East African sailing trip – log 40
SAILING LOG40
September 26, 2004
Not to be out-done or feel left out, the skippers head off in Duck Manatee to test their fishing skills. True to form they return with their bounty; 2 kingfish for Rhett and 1 rock-cod for Wolf.
Denise is hostess for our “king’s breakfast feast” which as usual is outstanding. We enjoy this breakfast sitting in the cockpit watching the fish-eagle searching for his, as he pierces the stillness with his distinctive cry. A warm gentle breeze caresses our bare shoulders as we watch Kerry and Tyra paddle out towards us on a ‘paddleski’ and we welcome them aboard.
Kent, Kerry’s son, had visited us on Karibu before breakfast and had asked us all about the bucket aquarium we were keeping on the dive-platform. He is just 9 years old and so worldly-wise. I realize just how privileged these 2 kids are; living in this pristine environment – home schooled by their parents. They are well-mannered, polite and interesting.
Their days are filled with kid-activities – swimming, fishing, snorkeling, and playing – their world is safe and free from the noise and clutter of the city – their family consists of their parents as well as all the staff and fortunate guests who happen on this piece of paradise.
The beach with its rustic, cool thatched bandas (Swahili for Beach hut) calls us and we dingy ashore long before sundown. It’s fun to mingle with the guests working on our social skills, and connecting long into the night.
A great connection we make is with a group of South African engineers who are working on the construction of the highway to Dar es Salaam.
September 27, 2004
The viagra mastercard aim of the acupuncturist is not only to cure the male erectile dysfunction, commonly known as the impotency. Intake of alcohol and other stuff like smoking, drug consumption etc will purchase viagra surely affect the erectile dysfunction. You will also see that some of the women prefer viagra samples from doctor to use topical creams, which are non-prescription and are easily absorbed by the body. Not part of the cowed cialis on sale crowd, Ms.
At 8:15am we leave our yachts and pick up our guide, Saidi, for the day on the beach at the lodge. He leads us around the point into the harbour where Rhett and Wolf stroll off with him to buy a permit to visit the Kilwa ruins. With permits in hand we motor across the channel to Kilwa Island. The ruins of the old Fort stands as a testimony to the rich history of this area.
As surprising as medieval ruins along Africa’s coastline may be to many visitors, this striking island settlement with its disintegrating coral and limestone walls and somewhat intact remains of buildings such as, the old Fort the Sultans Palace and Great Mosque, offers an chance to explore into a period of East Africa’s history that seems to have been forgotten.
Saidi, who spoke excellent English, told us that Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara were Swahili trading cities; their prosperity based on control of trade with Arabia, India and China, through the 13th and 16th centuries, when gold and ivory from the interior was traded for perfumes, silver, Persian ceramics and Chinese porcelain. The remains of Kilwa Kisiwani cover much of the island with many parts of the city still unexcavated. We found this island steeped in ancient history fascinating.
We visited Gereza fort, on the northern part of the island, the cemetery with its curious tombstones, and the site of the Makutini Palace (palace of great walls) said to have housed sultans.
Most impressive is the ruin of Husani Kubwa on the cliff-top overlooking the entrance to Kilwa bay. In its day, this massive fortification had a roof hung from a central conical dome some 30mt high, covering 100 rooms and chambers.
It is awesome to stand on the site of centuries of history dating back to before the crusaders. There is so much to see; so much to absorb that our brains are oozing. What a fabulous experience and sheer privilege to witness it with our own eyes. We leave filled with a sense of awe at the mystique and secrecy hidden under the piles of rubble and in the graves of those who once helped make this a vibrant illustrious city.
We are back in time for an afternoon snooze and to bake fresh bread-rolls and a potato-bake for a BBQ on yacht Manatee. They invited Schalk and his wife Marta and Pieter; the South Africans we met yesterday. It was a pleasant evening spent chatting and laughing when suddenly we realized that Manatee was almost in the breakers – Rhett had to move into deeper water.