East African sailing trip – log 50

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October 13-14, 2004

Africa has a way of effecting one in so many ways, and the lasting ones are memories. All the experiences we are living on this trip, will soon be added to the databank of entries and I know that I will only be able to recall the details if I capture them in these scribbling. My pages are filled with real life stuff – escapades and happenings that some people only dream about.

Wolf and Rhett accept a lift to the Customs and Immigration Offices and we now have our transires for Zanzibar. There is something magical about the thought of visiting this exotic island wrapped in history, cloaked in mystery and veiled in secrets. The thought conjures up mixed emotions – sadness for her past associated with slave-trade; human product, caught in the trap of a greedy trade which lasted far too long – thoughts of excitement and anticipation to discover an insight into what makes this such a captivating place. The name itself holds the promise of intrigue.

Pete and Rosie take us to their apartment near the school where she teaches English. We indulge in a deep bath soaking the time away.  They have put down temporary roots, having bought a small truck which allows them to really discover Tanzania.

I too have been snared by this land of superlatives; place of Africa’s highest mountain, deepest lake, largest inland body of water as well as its largest game reserve. Tanzania has the world’s most famous National Park, and the most abundant movement of wildlife. Her borders are snow-capped peaks, fertile coral reefs, primate-rich virgin rainforest and rolling African savannah; all protected by a progressive environmental and conservation policy that is embedded in the country’s constitution. I will forever yearn for more of this country. One can never feel completely satiated.

En-route to the yacht club they stop allowing us to fill our diesel containers – our tanks are once again full and we have 4 drums spare. We are so fortunate to have been able to connect with them and are amazed at their hospitality.

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October 15, 2004

Wolf changes engine oil, and the fuel filters. I hitch a ride to the supermarket with a yacht-member. The weather is beginning to change – the temperature is rising and the humidity is increasing. The wind strengthens, thankfully cooling us down, without it there is little respite from the overpowering heat.

Johnny and Hester from yacht Sanyati have invited us to their boat. Johnny is the local custodian of many of the yachts when the owners leave them to go to their various homes. He has heard about a possible charter gig in December and wants to know if we might be interest. Unfortunately the pay is low at $1000 a month and we don’t think it is worth the effort, especially for both of us.

We spend another evening getting to know more members at the yacht club, their voices and boat-names are becoming familiar from the radio chit-chat on channel 6 VHF. We meet Val from “yacht Isonomy”; Ina and Freddie from “Hazina”; Christina and Sabastian from “yacht Mandrake”; Steve and Paula Pepperell from “Long White Cloud” a beautiful 45’ ketch from New Zealand which has captured my heart.

The tide is way out by the time we call “Dingy… Dingy” and we are giggling and laughing when all of us pile into the dingy and it won’t budge.


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