East African sailing trip – Log 7

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July 9, 2004

The day breaks with beautiful blue skies and a warm winter sun. We are confident that the weather will be fine and move Karibu back to the channel closer to the Big House.

As we approach we see a 60ft mono hull coming around the point. It is the yacht “Odyssey” fromDurban. The skipper is Barry and wife Estelle with their son Ryan and Sam. They also have with them a young guy who is paying his way, to gain sea-miles for his skipper’s certification

We anchor and spend the day together at Johns place. We taste John’s famous cheese burgers, and head off to Karibu. It is a starry night, calm waters and absolute silence… all the ingredients for a perfectly restful sleep.

July 10, 2004

We receive a phone call from Jen & Bill on Moonshadow and tell them we are making plans to leave this wonderful place and its friendly people before we decide never to leave. Linga Linga is a haven for tired and weary yachties… A place to recuperate and replenish the expended energy of a long trip; to relax and de-stress.fixing John’s motors

Karibu at anchor
Beautiful anchorage

We are enjoying an excellent breakfast in the cockpit when we suddenly hear a blowing sound and a jet of air escaping from our dingy.

The front seam has burst and it is flat in seconds. What a catastrophe we radio Odyssey and ask Barry if he would help us to try and repair it.

He had mentioned that he had special glue onboard.

All day is spent under the awning at the white house. John is in the kitchen preparing a Portuguese dish and at 4:30pm he calls us in to join him for dinner. I am still astounded by his generosity.

We finish this delectable meal with pancakes and stewed pineapple. Plenty of Rum & coke flows around the table as we listen to the stories of past experiences told by the crew off Odyssey. They have been cruising for 25 years.

Thanks to them our dingy is 100% no more leaks and stays inflated! We will just have to compensate for the air expanding when it is left in the midday sun.

July 11, 2004

Karibu - our movable home
Karibu - our movable home

Both Wolf and I awake with the feeling that it is time to complete the next leg of our trip to Bazaruto. We are rested and have wonderful memories of the people – new friends we shared time with here at Linga Linga

By 10:30am we have said our farewells and slowly pass by the Big House blowing on the fog-horn and waving madly and shouting all sorts of good wishes. Tears well up in my eyes and I get all choked up watching them until they become small specs on the horizon.

By 12:30pm we are clear of the sandbars and the exit toInhambaneBay. The sky is clear but we see the haze of the upcoming SW winds and accompanying clouds and rain. We set our waypoints and to pass time we shower on the dive platform, washing our hair and spend the rest of the afternoon with me reading to Wolf as he keeps an eye on the instruments

The clouds cover the last feeble rays of the winter sun as it prepares to disappear behind the hilly coastline. The wind speed is constant 15-20kts and the sea conditions choppy. Fortunately we have a following sea but the swells are already 3mts.  We have the smallest bit of Genoa pushing us and we pray for flatter seas through the long dark night. The moon will only rise at around 2:30am.

We do not see it as we are blanketed by a cloud which travels over us all the way to the entrance to the Bazaruto Archipelago. We are escorted by a pod of dolphins that are playful and eager to show off their spinning antics.

It seems absolute ages to get to the channel. We are exhausted and shaken up by the big swells and long to get into the shelter of theIslands. Our friends on Moonshadow are waiting for us on Pansy Island and we look forward to being with them.

Pansy Island
the small islang called Pansy Island because it has so many sand dollars (also called pansy shells)

We arrive at 1:45pm the anchorage is sheltered from the SE but a 30kt SW is predicted for the following day so we will have to move It is good to have company again. Our friends have been in the archipelago for a month and have only good things to say about their stay.

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The Bazaruto Archipelago consists of 5 idyllic Islands opposite the coastal town ofVilanculos; Bazaruto, Benguerra, Margaruque, Santa Carolina and Bangue . The islands are now protected as a conservation area and national Park.

Sand dunes are found throughout the Archipelago and tidal flats and inland saline lakes support a wide variety of seabirds. The reefs are home to thousands of fish, corals and marine mammals. The largest dugong population along the East African coast is also resident here.

An untouched paradise on earth, the Archipelago has earned the reputation as the “Pearl of  the Indian Ocean”

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