East African sailing trip – log 75

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November 23, 2004
Wolf is adamant that he does not want to leave Karibu here for 3 months while we fly back to South Africa and then on to our son’s wedding in Australia. I manage to finally worm it out of him, he wants to go back to South Africa and begin looking for work.
Never had he told me his plans, though I suspect that he knew all along. He had originally said that he wanted to cruise on towards Thailand, then into the Pacific and across to Hawaii ending in British Columbia.

Now everything has changed – for me the fun has ended! All I want is to get back to Dares Salaam and book a flight to Canada. I am not interested in sailing back to Durban – nor am I interested in working in South Africa.

I consider my home to be on Vancouver Island. I did not agree to this trip in order to end up back in South Africa. I was under the impression the plan was to sail until we reached British Columbia, even if it took us 4 years.

I tell him that I am not going to sail back to Durban with him – he will have to advertise for crew and leave without me. There is an awful heaviness over our once serenely peaceful float-home; and it’s not due to the unyielding heat or humidity. My ideas to do an inland safari to Serengeti or the Ngorongoro Crater are dashed, as are any plans to explore the coast of Kenya.

It’s time to reflect on how this revelation is going to affect our lives! I am devastated – we clear customs and immigration and plan to move to Dares Salaam in the morning. Sadness and despondency overwhelms me. It’s as though someone just took all the wind out of my sails. I am suddenly very tired and absolutely drained.

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November 24, 2004
As usual we are up and off to an early start. By 6:30am we are heading out of the channel. We are part of a flotilla consisting of Dhows, Jaharis and Chachungis. Seems everyone thinks it is time to leave.

A squall hits as we exit the harbour mouth and it is time for a freshwater shower. I notice the crew on a dhow passing us doing the same thing, only they are more vocal, shouting and laughing loudly as they strip off their clothing.

Advice from one of the yachties at DYC is due to the strong current which runs North, our best route would be to head back across the channel to Ras Nungwi then down the Zanzibar coastline before crossing the Zanzibar channel towards Dares Salaam.

The crossing is uneventful and we make it in good time reaching Nungwi by 2:30pm. With plenty time to drop the dingy and go ashore, we decide to visit the 2 resorts stopping to buy a cold drink at each of them.

I really love Zanzibar and especially Nungwi, the décor used at the resorts is rustic ethnic and nothing like I have I have ever seen – I love the rope-work made from the husks of the coconuts; the interesting bamboo furniture handcrafted with such skill; and the flamboyant colorful art. My mind reels trying to absorb it all – I take many photographs and record as much of the detail as possible – I never want the memory of this place to fade.

Back on the foredeck of our comfortable yacht we watch another fantastic sunset; they never disappoints us; each evening the sunset is more spectacular than the one before. We sit in pensive mood. I have resigned myself to the fact that I must be with Wolf, for better or for worse… we discuss some options open to us; talking deep into the night and finally give in to sleep snuggling close despite the heat.

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