East African sailing trip – Log 8

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July 13, 2004

Our first day anchored off  Pansy Island is glorious. We wake up refreshed and starving so we make a wholesome breakfast.

Fruitsalad, Yoghurt, Muesli and Honey
Home-made Fruitsalad, Yoghurt, Muesli and Honey- our cruising breakfast

I am making fresh yoghurt daily which I started from a ancient culture that I received from Jan on Yacht Yawarra.

It can be made with powdered milk (which is what I use) but works equally well with fresh and long-life milk. We have the yoghurt ith fresh fruit-salad and muesli most mornings.

After completing the washing we lower the dingy and head off to yacht Moonshadow where we enjoy a cup of coffee and catch-up on their sailing news.

Pansy Island
Pansy Island

I am eager to see the beach where we spend a long time collecting shells.

There are literally millions and although I decided not to collect any… the bug has bitten andselect a few special ones.

We invite them to join us for dinner and to watch “finding Nemo” on our new DVD player.

waiting in the wind
We are confined to the boat

Bill convinces Wolf that the anchorage will be ok when the SW comes through but we do move deeper into the channel to take shelter in the lee of Bazaruto Island. Before the end of the movie it arrives – no forewarning…

Bill and Jen hurry off to Moonshadow and we spend most of the night on anchor watch. I have to admit that we are paranoid after our “beaching experience” at Linga Linga.

The SW peaked at 28kts during the night. Neither of us had any sleep. It is bumpy and noisy and we drift sideways as the tides turn.
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July 14, 2004

Making the best of a windy situation

The wind blows incessantly, gusting to 32kts. We hear that it is expected to moderate to 20-25kts tomorrow and then 15-20kts for the next 3 days… GREAT! Just what we want! If only we had followed our instinct and headed to a more protected anchorage.

So far we can count the good days on the fingers of 1 hand.. It is impossible to attempt the short dingy ride to Moonshadow as it is too unpleasant and miserable out.

I bake bread and we stay aboard reading and resting while the wind gusts and the currents push us around like a cork in a boiling pot.

July 15, 2004

Benguerra beach
Paradise on the beach

The skies begin to clear and the wind is now blowing at 10-15kts. Jenny radioed us to tell us Bill was not feeling well, but would like to move over to Benguerra Island at high tide.

We make a decision to go as Wolf is impatient for a change in scenery. At 2:30pm we weigh anchor and motor across the sandbar joining 4 other yachts in a much more sheltered anchorage.


We are visited by the WWF boat they come to collect our conservation fee of $10 per person.

Benguerra island
Benguerra island from the air showing the shallow sand-bars

We drop the tender and go ashore. The Benguerra Lodge is really beautiful. I have lots of ideas for my dream “beach-house” The Island is 10 miles long and 5 miles wide and several lodges operate on this Island. They have their own air-strip flying guests in every few days.

We meet a honeymoon couple from England. The prices at the lodges are high and are based on foreign prices. Our 2 passion-fruit and lemonades cost R47.00 and we realize that from now on we will have to get used to paying the equivelent of US dollars. Guests are charged in US$… throughout these islands.

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