East African sailing trip – Log 9

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July 16, 2004

From the bow of a Dhow

Breakfast is eaten in the cockpit absorbed in the perfect scenery surrounding us. I love this anchorage and enjoy watching the locals on their dhows, either transporting passengers or fishing.

We hurry over to Moonshadow who join us for a walk along the beach. They show us around the Benguerra Lodge and we walk for miles along this wonderful beach.

We buy crayfish on the beach
Grilled Crayfish is really delicious with garlic butter

We buy crayfish from a local fisherman and while we are walking along the beach I make 2 new little friends, Antonio & Mario 10 and 8 years respectively.

Antonio speaks good english and I notice he has an eye-infection. We chat a while and he is eager to take me to his village. He tells me his father owns a dhow and ferries people to the various islands and the mainland. He says his mother has just made home-made bread-rolls called “Pows” which she wants to sell.

Antonio has an eye infection and I give him mother drops to treat it
Antonio's vegetable garden

He lives in a village behind the lodge. They take us to their little village and we notice a good vegetable garden with spring onions, tomatoes, corn, and few others.  I go there again later to give them my vegetable seeds and to treat the eye infection in Antonio’s left eye. We buy homemade bread-rolls from Antonio’s mother.

July 17, 2005

How we enjoy our breakfasts, we slice & toast the Pows which I bought yesterday, they are delicious with our home-made blackberry jam. Later we join Moonshadow and go ashore to take photos of the Lodge.

We spend a lazy afternoon on Karibu reading and letter-writing. The water looks so clean and inviting, too tempting too resist so we jump in and snorkel around the boat, checking the hull, props and anchor.

Wolf caught an unsuspecting crab but lets it go. We notice barnacles on the hulls as well as the anti cavitations rubber on one of the drive legs is loose so we make plans to beach Karibu to do some repairs.

July 18, 2004

Time is racing by, we are having the timeof our lives.  We have been invited to join Moonshadow for dinner of fresh fried fish which Bill has caught. It is a wonderful evening and we have fun talking about these lovely islands and the 5 star lodges and people that run them. We marvel that we are able to visit these beautiful places and move from one to the other on our comfortable floating homes.

Sally the manager of the Benguerra Lodge has been so friendly and would like us to come to her bungalow to show “Finding Nemo” and to have a meal with her, but due to the unexpected arrival of new guests we do not have this opportunity.
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Benguerra collage
Benguerra collage

July 19. 2004

This is the day we have chosen to work on the hulls. We move over the sandbar and wait patiently for the tide to ebb, Karibu settles gently onto the sandy bottom and Wolf immediately sets to work scraping the hulls then gluing and screwing the rubbers into place.

I do some housekeeping and a load of washing. I manage to shine the bright-work on the starboard side before we sail back to our mooring. The weather seems to be settling. At last…

July 20, 2004

Time to move to new surroundings, we have heard so much about the Marlin Lodge so we follow Moonshadow. The sail there is perfect. Wolf and I maneuver in and out of the channels and sandbars. By 1:15pm we are safely anchored in the channel just in front of the lodge, next to all the other boats.

aerial view of the approach to Benguerra Island
Showing the sandbars which can be a hazard if you don't know these waters

Marlin Lodge is situated on Benguerra Island, part of Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago. This small island was declared a National Park in 1971, and with three fresh water lakes, it is home to crocodile and a variety of birds. The Lodge lies along the beautiful beach of Flamingo Bay and offers guests an exclusive experience on this unspoilt island.

We drop the tender and follow Bill & Jen to Shell Island. We had noticed a reef on the way over and once back, we don our snorkeling gear to explore it. What a pleasant surprise to see lots of anemones, clown fish, and a variety of tropical marine fish.

Dale, the skipper of a charter yacht “Ocean Explorer” invites us to join them for a BBQ. We meet some staff from the Marlin Lodge and spend a pleasant evening getting to know each other. .  It is a super day… hopefully one of many to more to come

July 21, 2004

Marlin Lodge
Marlin Lodge

We are awake long before 6:00am; the sky is devoid of clouds and the wind has slowed to a gentle breeze. Last night the staff invited us to tour the Marlin Lodge and we join Dale and go ashore. It is gorgeous. We have a cup of tea with Adriaan and Collette who offers to fax my newsletter to the family.

Wolf and I take our dingy for a ride to shell island, it is peaceful and so beautiful. Later Bill & Jen join us and it is getting dark by the time we make our way back to the yachts.

We spend the evening reading but it’s not long and we are sound asleep. The long days in the fresh air and sun make one exhausted.


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