East African sailing trip – log 22

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karibu sailing spinnaker flying
We sail our spinnaker every chance we get


September 1, 2004

At 4:30am we are awake and rearing to go; by 5:00am we are moving out of the bay into the sea.

We hope to reach Pemba Bay by nightfall but it will require some hard and clever sailing as it is approximately 60nm to go.  Even at an average of 5kts it will take us 12 hours.

karibu motor-sailing
karibu motor-sailing

We have to motor sail and keep up the speed. There is little wind to fill our sails – the barometer is falling and we know we are in for a change in weather. We are probably about to be hit by the “beasterly-easterly”

True to form it begins to show itself as ripples on the oily ocean surface and a gentle head wind on our faces, it strengthens as the afternoon progresses and by 4:30we are heading into a 15-18kt wind with high swells… we push on,,, the wind strengthens… we push on still.

Haircut on Manatee
Haircut on Manatee

Finally we reach the waypoint and turn into the channel leading to Pemba Harbour.

We luckily have the current with us sucking us into the bay – our speed reaching 9kts we round the Northern point into a quiet area where we drop anchor and wait to watch the conditions.
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Wolf prefers to move out into deeper water after our dinner on Manatee.

September 3, 2004

boat maintenance
Chores always need to be done

The NE is predicted for the next 4 days so we choose to move right into the bay away from all the activities of the lodges and exposure to the wind. Rhett leads us to an excellent anchorage and we spend time catching up on cleaning, washing, reading, journaling, hair-cutting and maintenance.

We are still struggling to resolve the issue with the fuel starvation. The wind persists… it is quite exhausting; thankfully, the anchorage is good holding in mud and we hardly feel the movement of the sea.

The locals keep to themselves which makes a welcome change. Life is good, we finally have cell-phone connection and we let everyone know that we are fine. Nobody bothers to SMS or phone back –

September 5, 2004

Saltwater-logged mangrove roots we want to use as coffee table legs
Saltwater-logged mangrove roots

We are starting to get cabin fever so Duck Manatee fetches us and we take a slow boat-ride up the mangrove swamps. We stop at a beach to stretch our legs and get much needed exercise. The wind blows… we try to ignore it and continue to explore, regardless of its incessant persistence.

As we make our way up the mangrove lined river we come across a little village. We want to visit but decide against it, preferring to gather a few dead salt-soaked mangrove roots which Rhett tells us will make great coffee table legs. We laugh as we ride back slowly balancing mangrove roots and wondering where we will find the place to stow them.

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