Desolation Sound Sailing Trip – Log 10

23 June 2013

Bright blue skies cover the bay and we weigh anchor hoping to take advantage of the tide running through the narrows. When I got up at 3:15am this morning to check that all was well, the full moon flooded the bay in bright light. Stars shone in a clear sky overhead and I could just see the crack of dawn beginning to lighten the eastern sky. The days are long and full of excitement and sleep is difficult when sunset is at 10:30pm and it is still dusk at 11:00pm. It is 6:00am and the smooth watery surface is broken only by our wake and the odd seal popping up to see what all the noise is about, and disturbing the peace.  I take load of photographs of the wonderful reflection in the water, of trees and mountains, with the water so calm it is sometimes difficult to distinguish the dividing line.

Exiting Malispina Inlet on the outgoing tide adds another 3kts to our speed and at 7.9 – 8.4kts we glide effortlessly passed Zephine Head, into the sound.  We round the head and move into Galley Bay making our way into Buff Cove where we anchor for breakfast. Galley Bay still partly privately owned has an interesting history. It was known for many years as one of the largest hippie communes on BC coast. Mostly from Quebec and California about 100 people settled and tried to survive on the natural abundance of sea-life and foods in the area stretching for several hundred meters behind Galley Bay towards Zephine Head. Unfortunately the commune didn’t survive as its members found the life too demanding and challenging.

We exit Galley Bay at 9:00am tummies full. Slightly to port lies Kinghorn Island, dead ahead Redonda, in the forefront of snow-peaked Mount Hayes, which points its tall finger towards to the clear blue sky, and to starboard Desolation Sound Marine Park on the mainland. We pass Portage Cove so named because it is a narrow stretch of land (isthmus) connecting Gifford Peninsula to the mainland – Portage Cove to Wootton Bay in Theodosia Inlet. This strip of land is privately owned and is not part of Desolation Sound Marine Park. The wind is almost non-existent, the sun warm and comforting. I peel off the layers of clothing in stages until I am down to a tank-top and a sarong. Is this really Canada, I ask myself.

We make our way to Mink Island which is privately owned. Signs on many of the huge trees say – NO FIRES and we can only image how frightening it would be to live on an island and have a fire run wildly through it, destroying everything in its path. There are 2 jetties and the cruising guide by Bill Wolferstan, which I have referenced for interesting facts, throughout my blogs, says floatplanes sometimes taxi into the bay dropping off owners and visitors to the residence. In the middle of the bay is Goat Island, a rocky little island which apparently is where a few goats were kept in days gone by.
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From Mink we head for Tenedos Bay on Tenedos Island (also known as Deep Bay), passing Churme Islands to port. This bay is not known as Deep Bay for nothing. Depths in excess of 100mts (300-600ft) just off the shore in places limits the amount of boats for anchoring. We found a patch which shows a depth of 7mts. It is on the northernmost end behind Woodchuck Island.

We anchor and charge ashore in the dingy to the bay where the freshwater from Lake Unwin runs into the northeastern cove. We hiked the trail which thankfully was a lot easier than I expected; well cleared with stepping-stones placed strategically in the muddy patches. The lake is reported to reach almost tepid temperatures and attracts many bathers. I felt it and it was no warmer than the sea, so even though I had brought my bathing-suit I am definitely not going in.

Wolf and I were eager to move across to Refuge Cove on West Redonda Island, so at 3:45pm we weigh anchor and with a headwind blowing against us we motor the short 6-7nm. We pass about 10 kayakers making their way to Tenados Island, some of them lagging far behind the leaders. The weather is changing, clouds darken the sky, and slight drizzle forces us into our windbreakers.

We tie up against the co-op wharf at Refuge Cove at 4:15pm and walk up to the little store to complete the formalities. Mooring is very reasonable we are charged $0.70 per foot. There is access to 15amp power at $7.00 per day in summer. Summer rates start on 1 July and so, because it is not yet summer, the generator switches off at 5:30pm. Internet is on a pay per service system we connect to post my previous day’s blog at a rate of $5 per hour (pretty expensive but we are happy to have access).

At the store we get chatting to the locals who share some history on the formation of the co-op.  The co-op is owned and run by 18 families all owners of cottages in Refuge Cove. They started the co-op so that each owner would have a vested interest in the various businesses. No more leases are available so the only way to get into the co-op is when someone decides to sell. The facilities include the general store, clean showers, laundry, fuel dock, a gallery, a book exchange, and in the summer “The boat Stop Café” which serves light lunches and home-baked goods.