Desolation Sound Sailing Trip – Log 11


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24 June 2013

Refuge Cove jetty
Refuge Cove jetty

It pours throughout the night. Every time I turned I hear the ‘pitter patter’ on the deck and I think of those poor kayakers camping in their tiny tents with all their gear getting sopping wet. Since coming to this area we have seen so many kayakers. This is kayaking heaven with so many islands in such close proximity to each other. We wake to the rain’s continuous sound. The weatherman has given a bleak outlook for the coming week and we realize that we were blessed to have enjoyed such good weather till now.

Power is restored to Refuge Cove docks, at 8:00am (generator back on), and so I begin to catch up with my blogging in readiness for the next internet access point. Today we plan to motor/sail across to Cortes Island officially leaving Desolation Sound and slowly making our way down south.

Approaching Squirrel Cove
Approaching Squirrel Cove

Cortes Island is 16km (10miles) wide and 32km (20miles) in length from north to south and offers numerous bays and coves for the mariner. Ferries carry passengers to and from Cortes to Quadra island and Vancouver island, and seaplanes operate daily flights into Cortes Bay. When I was researching for desirous ports of call, for our trip, I saw an article on the Community of Squirrel Cove and I decided it would be a neat place to visit.

Kayaks at Squirrel Cove
Kayaks at Squirrel Cove

We arrived in the bay at 9:00am and motored towards their dock.

Unfortunately when we reach the wharf it is full and so we decide to head into Squirrel Cove at the northern end of the bay. I am so disappointed but, when Wolf explains that this is the bay where up to 100 boats can anchor in the summer, it piques my interest.

 

Along the way we see the kayakers on the beach. I feel reassured that they are fine.
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Reversible Falls
Reversible Falls

To get to this bay we go through a narrow channel with rocky cliffs on either side. I am apprehensive but as we approach the channel is much wider and deeper than I imagined. The bay is stunning! We motor across to the “reversible falls”. At low tide the water from the lake comes rushing down an incline and falls into the sea, but at high tide the sea rushes back into the lake.

We find a good place to anchor in 5mts depth over a sandy bottom, climb into the dingy, and zoot over to explore the falls. Wolf lands in on the shore and we scramble over the rocks to the lake. This is a really beautiful anchorage offering walks into the forest and many places to explore. I can understand why it is so popular with boaters.

Moored to the Jetty
Moored to the Jetty

After a light lunch we decide to motor through the narrows back to the Community of Squirrel Cove.

This time we are in luck. There is space for us against the public wharf and after tying up we walk over to the general store. Next to the general supply shop, which carries a variety of essentials, is a craft shop selling locally made knitted, glass, wooden, and native crafts.

WIFI connection is available, but not on the jetty, so we fetch our laptops and spend a few hours sitting in the laundry, checking email, and posting our blog.

Squirrel Cove General Store
Squirrel Cove General Store

We stroll along the beach covered wall-to-wall in oysters, and collect a few bleached shells to make a wind-chime.

Back on Karibu we connect to shore power at $4 a day and we are able to charge all our equipment, download our photos and spend a leisurely evening reading. This is really a quaint place – the people are friendly and we enjoy the laid-back atmosphere.

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