East African sailing trip – log 19

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August 26, 2004

Fishermen laying their nets
Friendly and welcoming

It is 5:30am when we leave Ilha de Mafemeda and head into the wind, motoring most of the 5 hours until we get to the Sangage Lighthouse.  Once we reach the waypoint we turn and enter the bay which is actually the river mouth and head up the river and anchor off the other side of the lighthouse in 6.5mts in a beautiful bay completely calm despite the 18kt NE.

Where we are anchored it is wonderfully sheltered, we immediately see dugout canoes brimming with curious locals heading out to visit us. Rhett strikes up friendly conversation and orders prawns – we place our order for coconuts and papaya. We will have to see whether they are able to get these for us.

The afternoon is spent resting, reading and writing while we wait for the ‘beasterly easterly’ to subside. It continues to strengthen making us happy to be out of reach of it ferocity and annoying persistence. We catch up on some chores patiently waiting for it to subside.

August 27, 2004

Sangage - Karibu & Manatee
The wind is still blowing steadily at sea but here it is calm and protected

The decision is unanimous and we settle in for another day in this stunning place. I complete a load of washing, including our sheets, while Wolf looks at the fuel starvation issues. While we go about our chores we hear the angelic harmonizing voices of the women doing theirs.
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There is something reassuring listening to their songs and witnessing the interaction of the different groups at work. The older men have left in their canoes in search of fish, the younger boys form teams and are playing a friendly game of soccer. The younger girls take care of the little ones and the teenage- girls go off with water drums to fetch water. Some women are doing their laundry at the water’s edge.

Perfection, white sandy beach and warmth
We are the only people on this gorgeous beach

Wolf and I motor the dingy to the beach at the far end of the bay and take photographs. The banner header of this website is a result of a series of photographs stitched together to show this wonderful bay in panoramic view. We get back and Rhett and Denise go exploring. The agreement we reached is that we watch out for each other’s boats and it works perfectly.

Wolf makes a scrumptious fish curry and I bake a batch of breadrolls. It’s our turn to host the dinner which we enjoy with a glass of wine, followed by “Finding Nemo”

Sangage Dugouts
The Chief comes calling

Sangage the name of this place, is peaceful and tranquil with friendly receptive people. Augustino, the leader (chief) of the community comes to welcome us with 3 boats and a delegation of 16 locals. One of them speaks very good English and we chat for at least 1 hour.

We are happy to have been able to explore this place. Before we left RichardsBay we were told that yacht Linaka would be operating a mercy service to this community. A medical team would volunteer their services using the yacht as a base. They asked us to consider the post and skipper and hostess.

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