East African sailing trip – log 35

Categories :


September 19, 2004

old boma hotel
looking across the bay towards the Old Boma

Today is Sunday but instead of our traditional “kings breakfast” we are treating ourselves to lunch at the “Old Boma Hotel”.

Originally built as a fort in 1895, by the Germans, this impressive building has been renovated by “Trade aid Projects” and is now a niche hotel catering to the well-travel visitor who enjoys the experience of culture and tradition.

We arrive at noon and immediately head to the computer room to use the internet. Once our emails are sent and read, we proceed to the pool- deck, and sit in the shade of a huge old Kapok tree and enjoy the outstanding service and mouth-watering meal. Our meal consists of Prawns Masala, Coconut Rice, fresh vegetables and salad.

Hotel interior
Old Boma Fort renovated as a boutique Hotel

I want so badly to dive into that swimming pool and stay under for as long as I can, just to feel what my skin feels like without a coating of salt-laden air. (I’ve forgotten) But we sail back to the other side of the bay where we anchored last night. It’s time for a ‘siesta’ to sleep off all that food; just a short power-nap so that we can go exploring again.

Denise said she would stay and watch the boats and we speed off across the bay to the to explore a few ruins we had seen while entering the mouth. Later we discover that there used to be a sisal mill and the ruins were the remains of the supports for the jetty.

makondo woman
makondo woman

We drag the dingy up the beach and head for the path leading into the bush. Along the path we notice tracks in the dirt – they appear to be from a really large cat and figure them to have been left by a leopard or lion.

While inspecting them we are approached by an old woman with what looks like an up-side-down bottle-top snugly nestling in a hole in her top lip. None of us have ever seen anything like this before;  I manage to sneak photos of this (I had asked for permission but she declined) As we say farewell to the old lady we spot 4 Masai men dressed in full tribal garb sprint away from us up the hill. This confuses us and we decide to inspect the area  they had come from before we came upon them.

Masai woman and child
Masai woman and child

The biggest benefit of Penegra is, it successfully heals the problem by working on it without taking into account viability and averageness. low cialis cost You may have the confusion that india online cialis and cialis are working in a similar way. So these two factors probably viagra in india are the most important. Unfortunately, not all viagra online mastercard of these drugs work well. A beautiful tall, slender and regal-looking Masai woman cones to greet us. She has a small toddler on her hip.

She is very friendly but doesn’t understand us.

She indicates that she lives in a nearby shack but sleeps in this tree-house secured between a few palm-trees.

We realize this is probably to keep out of reach of the leopard at night.  It is time to move on and our next stop in on the beach in-front of the old village of Pemba. We are warmly welcomed by the whole community.

Wolf is still in his short swimming-trunks and they ask him to cover his legs. The say a man must have trousers on in order to enter the village. I hand him a towel which he ties around his waist.

Old Pemba Huts
Old Pemba Huts

We walk through this fascinating old village; spotlessly clean and devoid of any litter. Their charming, rustic houses are constructed from materials found locally. The streets are dirt but neatly swept, Shade from ancient Baobabs provide open air seating areas where little ones are taught by day, and stories are told by night.

A young man introduces himself in English as the local teacher and kindly becomes our guide, pointing out various places of interest and relating fascinating accounts of their history and culture. Our afternoon passes too quickly; the sun drops to the horizon. We begin to make our way back to the beach filled with a new respect and admiration for these wonderful villagers.

Launching the dhow
Launching the dhow

A group of men are launching a huge dhow which has just undergone repairs.

Wolf gets to work helping them and Rhett lends inspiration and vocal motivation singing “Shoshaloza” in his loudest bass voice,

 I pick up on harmonizing with him, much to the amusement and hysterical laughter and clapping from the onlookers.

As we head off they shout “Karibu Tena” (which means “Welcome Back”) and can also be used as “Come again”

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.